Over the years people often expressed surprise when I revealed that I hadn’t been to Ireland yet. I have been fortunate in having been able to undertake a lot of international travel over the years, which began with an exchange year in Scotland many years ago. I recall the one regret I had from that year was the fact that I was not able to go to Ireland, but I am reminded once again that everything happens for a reason. Waiting all these years meant I had a much firmer grasp on my family’s history which enabled the trip to touch me on level that would not have happened before. Being able to experience this with my parents made it all the more special.
All my life I knew I was “Irish.” I knew there had been two brothers leave Ireland and come to PEI way back when and for many years that was the extent of my genealogical knowledge of my Rossiter family history. The first spark of interest in my Irish roots came during my first year of university which I undertook at UPEI. In my first year, I enrolled in the mandatory English 101 class and ended up with Brendan O’Grady for a Professor. I recall having to go to see him for some reason or another during the course of the semester and in doing so saw a large map of Ireland on the wall in his office. When he saw me looking at the map he said “Well, with a Rossiter surname you know where you come from.” The blank stare he received told him otherwise. He was immediately aghast at the fact that I didn’t seem to know – or care – about my Irish ancestry. He promptly ordered me to go to the library and read a book by Hilary Murphy entitled The Families of County Wexford. He kind of scared me and being a first year timid county kid, I did what I was told. It was with this book I discovered Rathmacknee.
Rathmacknee Castle is situated in the barony of Forth in the county of Wexford. The first mention of the Rossiters of Rathmacknee is documented in 1307 and a plaque on the outside of the castle states that Rathmacknee Castle was built ca. 1450 by John Rosseter. Rathmacknee Church existed even earlier – ca. 1240. After reading Hilary Murphy’s book, I knew I would go to see this castle one day.
My Japanese pen pal Naoko was the first person I knew to find this castle. Upon moving from Japan to Ireland in 2000, I casually mentioned my Irish heritage to her in a letter and about the existence of the Rathmacknee Castle. To my surprise and much to her credit, Naoko wasted no time in making the trip to Wexford to find Rathmacknee. I recall getting the padded envelope in the mail that was full of pictures she had taken of the castle – and I remember the excitement I felt. Going to Ireland for his honeymoon in 1996, I recall my cousin Gerry asking me about what he should see with respect to our Irish background. At the time, the only item I had to offer him was Rathmacknee. So he and his wife Linda were the first of the clan to make their way back. Last week, I finally got my chance – and much to her credit again, Naoko had a huge part to play in the adventure.
We had set up the coordinates via email and although I wasn’t sure what the day would bring, I was excited to see her. Naoko came to Killkenny to meet us and it was actually only the third time we had met in our lives: first in 1992 when Naoko came to PEI for a two week stay; secondly in 1998 when I met her for lunch in Tokyo; and the third time in Ireland – last week. Before departing for Wexford, we reminisced about her 1992 trip to PEI and my parents were very surprised at everything she remembered. We had lots to get caught up on and we chatted effortlessly. Naoko made the comment that I really hadn’t changed much, but I knew this wasn’t true. We were both very different. We are both now in our late 30s - strong, single, independent women – so different from the girls that met each other for the first time back in 1992. Before I knew it, it was time to set off for Wexford and the adventure of the Rossiter ancestral trail began.
The first of two goals for the day was to find Rathmacknee Castle, which we decided to do first before heading to Wexford town. We got lost a few times, but for me it was incredibly fun driving around lost on back roads in the Irish countryside. We stopped to ask for directions but people didn’t seem to know where the Castle was. Then it occurred to us to consult a guide book, which offered directions PEI style and went something to the effect: When driving through town keep the school on your left - turn left at the fork – turn left again at the T junction, etc... Well, we kept turning left and before I knew it Rathmacknee was right in front of me.
The Rathmacknee Castle and Church are now on private property, evidenced by the fact that a clothes line hangs directly beside the castle.
The first order of business was therefore to knock on the homeowner’s door and ask permission to enter their premises (their house is built in the courtyard of the castle). After a lengthy wait, the lady of her house opened her door – in her bathrobe (yep, we got her out of the bath) - and gave us the keys to the castle. Naoko suggested it should be me that unlock the door.
Dad opted to stay in the courtyard and Mom decided she had had enough of crawling around steep, damp slippery castle steps so it was Naoko and I that did the exploring.
This castle has been described as a “tower house” and it is one of the best preserved of its type in Ireland. There were initially five storeys but visitors are only allowed to visit the second story – for obvious safety reasons. In this second story the most noticeable element is the remains of a fireplace.
There is a well preserved machicolation over the doorway to the yard on the east side of the castle, which served to defend the entrance. Through this boiling oil or stones could be thrown on people attacking the castle.
All of the windows have ogee cusped beads of the XVth century type.
Although the Rathmacknee church which stands alongside the castle existed in 1240, the present Protestant church was built ca. 1830 and the roof was removed in 1957. There were a few things that surprised me about the church. The first was the tile work that was still very visible, where the altar would have once stood.
The second was the absolute jungle state of the graveyard beside the church. We tried to be respectful, but it was difficult to know where the graves were so we stumbled around and were successful in not spraining any ankles. One thing I know for sure is that it is hard to keep Bob out of a graveyard.
I was so incredibly happy to finally visit Rathmacknee. A genealogist I have been working with in England believes our family to be descendants of the Rathmacknee line. The current owners of the property say that they don’t get a lot of visitors, but every year there are a few Rossiters that trickle back to Rathmacknee. It took me almost twenty years, but I am so glad to have been able to visit this place with my parents, and I have Naoko, my Japanese pen pal of 20+ years to thank for it. It never ceases to amaze me how corners of my life intersect to produce the most amazing experiences. I now have a Wexford chapter to add to the book.
4 comments:
Thanks Neat. Thoroughly enjoyed this account! You have such a knack for description. You really should write another book!
Thanks so much Krista! I see you have re-directed your blog - well done - I will start following it!
As for another book....here's to hoping!
Wow! I have just read your blog on Rathmachnee - I am amazed at so many things of interest we seem to have in common. Firstly, I call myself a genealogist and I am researching my European heritage, including my family from Rathmachnee, Wexford Ireland, even though I am proud to be a fifth generation Australian. Tonight I decided to look up Rathmachnee and see if I could find a picture or photo of the old church. I have started using Pinterest to pin places relevant to my family history, so I wanted to add Rathmachnee. I visited Rathmachnee in 1994 when I was living as a nanny in England, as a young 22 year old. I was then on a quest to do what I could to find out more about my heritage, although finding anything in Ireland was very difficult. I remember visiting the church on a gloomy wet day in February and the churchyard was over run with grass and cows grazing around it. It was very difficult to read any headstone as the yard was so over run and appeared not cared for. I was told it was on private property and there was no-one around so I was reluctant to venture very far on my own. I was disappointed that I could uncover so little information and that the churchyard didn't appear to be maintained. (I was so amazed and greatly relieved tonight when I saw some photos on google maps of Rathmachnee and the church. I hope it still looks like that today, I'm not sure when those photos might have been taken.) Anyway, later the same year I also visited PEI as I am I huge fan of Anne of Green Gables and L.M. Montgomery. While there I met a Japanese girl and we did some Japanese tours of PEI even though at the time I couldn't speak Japanese. I too had had long time Japanese pen pals and had been to Japan to visit them the year before on the first leg of my round the world working holiday. I later studied Japanese at university and have been a Japanese teacher for 10 years. I would love to return to all of these places - Rathmachnee, PEI and Japan and show my husband and children. Perhaps one day our paths may cross.
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